Visiting Iguazu Falls

Today was the big day – after discussing it for months, we finally got to visit Iguazu Falls! I was a bit concerned that after so much build-up and anticipation we would be disappointed, but I was completely blown away by the immensity of it. I don’t see how you couldn’t be. It is truly an awe-inspiring site to see SO MUCH water flowing over not one, but numerous waterfalls that all converge into one.  It’s not the height of the falls that is dramatic, but their width. There are actually two horseshoes, one is a smaller but more complete horseshoe shape (at Garganta del Diablo), and the other is much wider (more side-by-side waterfalls), but not quite a horseshoe – more of a half-moon shape.

The rivers are so wide here they look like lakes, and you are truly in the middle of the jungle. It is incredibly hot and humid, which of course we knew it would be, but it was a shock to the system nevertheless. Everywhere we have been up to this point (except for a day or two in Salta) has been quite dry (like California!), so we were wilting in the humidity. The girls were almost as excited about all the butterflies as they were about the waterfalls. They both succeeded in getting butterflies to land on their hands, which was a big thrill. (You can see the bribery at work in the photo below – it’s amazing how helpful lollipops can be when lots of walking is required…)

The only critique you could possibly make of the Iguazu Falls experience (aside from the heat, which is just part of the deal), is that there are too many other people enjoying it with you. As with most great natural attractions, the allure is slightly dulled by the sense that this no longer a remote, untouched wilderness – though it has been developed fairly tastefully, it is quite developed nonetheless. To allow visitors to see the falls from all angles, there are 7 kilometers of paved walkways, many of which are elevated to cross over the numerous rivers that feed into the falls. And the park service has a VERY SLOW train to take you to the different entry points for the circuit hikes, which does make the whole thing feel a bit (only a bit) like Disney World.

There are three different circuit walks – two are above the falls and one is below. We started with the Garganta del Diablo, which puts you directly on top of the three immense waterfalls that together form the smaller horseshoe.  There is so much water and spray that it’s almost impossible to get a good photo – here’s my best attempt.

We then did the Paseo Inferior, which goes below the falls.  I actually liked this walk best, as it gives you an amazing panoramic view – the falls look SO much bigger when you see them from a distance.

Along the way you see lots of extremely tame (occasionally aggressive) coati- basically, the local species of raccoon, which unfortunately have been emboldened by the dumb tourists who feed them.

There is also a boat ride that takes you right under the falls, but (much to Sierra’s dismay) you have to be 12 years old to go. The girls and I therefore went for ice cream while Noah did the boat trip, and he returned completely soaked (which was a good thing!)

Then Noah stayed with the girls in the air-conditioned restaurant while I walked the final loop – the Paseo Superior – which is the longest loop, and from which there were some awesome views looking down at rainbows created by the waterfalls’ spray.

The other amazing thing about being right on top of the falls is the thunderous noise of them, which drowns out everything else and really makes you appreciate their power in a whole different way.

All in all, it was an amazing experience – I’m very glad we made the trip and hope the girls will remember it…though there may be a better chance they’ll remember the ice cream…

-La Portavoz